View Full Version : Camaro IROC-T Turbo Build-log V.DIY
As requested in the pics thread,
Ill just be porting the log over, so ignore the time frames etc in the posts.
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Well the turbo build has been going for a couple of days now and since im doing a little dairy on another site id thought id put it here in case anyone gave half a *****. Firstly i thought id through up a quick pictorial time-line of the car...
Just got her;
http://www.totalrpm.com/carimages/Droopz90IROC-bQyg.jpg
Juiced;
http://www.totalrpm.com/carimages/Droopz90IROC-9emv.jpg
http://www.totalrpm.com/carimages/Droopz90IROC-1jPf.jpg
http://www.totalrpm.com/carimages/Droopz90IROC-WlWN.jpg
New Wheels and interior;
http://www.totalrpm.com/carimages/Droopz90IROC-scdR.jpg
http://www.totalrpm.com/carimages/Droopz90IROC-OK0s.jpg
New paint;
http://www.totalrpm.com/carimages/Droopz90IROC-OD1e.jpg
New stance;
http://www.totalrpm.com/carimages/Droopz90IROC-vFm5.jpg
Thats about it untill earlier today. Shes now OFFICIALLY in pieces getting the turbo treatment. I hope that while I'm working on it the parts i'm waiting for arrive as my window for this to be done is closing alot faster than im happy about. But it shouldn't be too long.... (fingers crossed)
Ill update with pics most days as the build progresses....
Well basicly the last 2 nights have simply been getting the headers off.
The passenger side was a snap, and came off in no time at all.
http://www.totalrpm.com/forums/uploads/post-43-1120605418.jpg
The drivers side became a big mission since I had no way of reaching the back 2 manifold bolds with the steering shaft in the way. So 3 bolts on the inside of the firewall, 2 under the dash and 1 onto the intermediate shaft and that was out of the way.
http://www.totalrpm.com/forums/uploads/post-43-1120605355.jpg
After pulling the shaft up a few inches access was a breeze and the manifold came right off.
http://www.totalrpm.com/forums/uploads/post-43-1120605382.jpg
I also pulled the intermediate shaft out as i have a newer one to put in but i also noticed my steering box was leaking. That combined with my sloppy steering has prompted me to replace the box. Can anyone tell me what box is used in RHD conversions or how to ID this one?
Tomorrow: Test fitting of headers (without spark plugs )
OK... day (night) 2 is done.
I got the rest ofthe exhausts system off and began the test fitting of the headers. Naturally, nothing quite fits.
Firstly, the drivers side header. This was always going to be the scary one since it needs to dodge the block, starter, brake lines and steering shaft. Oddly enough it fits better than anything else. I'm not 100% sure if it will clear the steering shaft fully untill i put it back in, but right now the only mod it needs is where the white dot is in this pic needs to be bashed/crushed in about 15mm as its fouling on the top of a LCA mount.
** EDIT: Turns out i marked it wrong. Its fouling further up on the collector and is actually hitting the cross memeber **
http://www.totalrpm.com/forums/uploads/post-43-1120694119.jpg
OK.. next. The turbo header. Firstly I could tell just visually that it wasnt going to fit my big ass turbo in without removing the heater blower, so off it came. Im a little worried since Ive heard of cars failing rego without a heater, even up here. Something to do with de-misting i guess. Anyway, I tore out all the hoses and controls ages ago so its gone too.
The header itself bolted straight on without any dramas and looked the goods. BUT.... 2 major problems are present.
1. My turbo is too big, and hits the strut tower.
2. The V-Band Neck on the turbo is so long, it half passes over the gap mad for the dump pipe.
Here you can see the mark on the paint where it hits.
http://www.totalrpm.com/forums/uploads/post-43-1120693988.jpg
This I HOPE I cant solve by taking the header in and getting the flage cut off, and a spacer/angle put under it to raise it slightly and tilt it back in towards the middle. That would solve problem number 1.
Problems number 2 is a little mor tricky as it involves a very difficult to shape dump-pipe. I had hoped to use 4" until i got underthe car, but in order to get the initail "S" bend i need to bring the pipe forward under the turbo ill have to imidiatly go the 3" and have some very sharp turns. ALmost crushed I fear.
http://www.totalrpm.com/forums/uploads/post-43-1120694154.jpg
http://www.totalrpm.com/forums/uploads/post-43-1120694082.jpg
These pics kind of show where its gonna have to go. I'm not too stressed about number 2 right now as I need to find out exaclty where the turbo is going to end up before I can fit anything.
Another drama I just noticed last night is the bolt pattern on the turbo (GT40) doesnt match the both pattern on the header flange or supplied gasket.
http://www.totalrpm.com/forums/uploads/post-43-1120694189.jpg
After tracing the bolt holes onto the turbo with the gasket as a template you can see the black marks that need to be drilled/machined out.
Finally, with the help of this lovely ASS....istant :moon: , I was able to get a shot of where its all gonna end up. Should be awsome. :beer:
http://www.totalrpm.com/forums/uploads/post-43-1120694220.jpg
Big Engine + Big Turbo + Hot Chick = Teh WINNAR!!!!
Heres the turd-blow
http://www.totalrpm.com/forums/uploads/post-43-1115090783.jpg
Specs (from memory);
GT40;
Comp wheel diam 82mm, 50 trim, 0.58 A/R
Turbine 77mm, 73 trim, 0.94 A/R
Day 3
Not much today unfortunatly. Took teh turbo-side header in to the machining shop for them to have a look. The up-shot is that they're gonna make an angled spacer to weld onto the current flange-face. The result is that the turbo is raised about 10mm and rotated back towards the motor.
My new worry is that the drivers side header is fouling too much on the cross member to be 'dinted in' enough. So now I have to look at possibly taking a small chunk out of the edge of the cross member, or almost totally re-making that header.
Weekend Update:
Well a fair bit managed to get done this weekend. Not too many pics since the parents took my camera to bali but a few phone ones to keep the masses happy.
The headers have all been tacked up to where they need to be and are in getting finished today. For the turbo header modification, instead of cutting up teh header to move the flange up and in, we made up and angled spacer that effectivly rolles the turbo back in towards the engine and gives my the clearance i need from teh strut tower. It ended up being a very expencive way to do it due to the labour involved but it turned out well. It DOES however look like some minor hood modifications will ahve to be made in order to keep everything covered, which is a shame but not really unexpected.
Since alot of the this weekend was wasted waiting for parts to be made/modified, i focused on a few other bits of the car that i wanted to work on. I finally got around to installing my new Superior Forged Axles from the states and I must say they fit alot more snug that my old stock ones and are definatly made to a higher standard and should hold together a fair bit better.
We test fitted my FMU, external fuel pump and surge tank and it all looks like it will fit well. I need to fabricate up a peice of steel to box off and enclose the rear boot 'hole' to close it off from the cabin so i can run fuel in and out of there, but thats no major drama.
I also managed to install the Energy Suspension polyurethane bushes for the front and rear swaybars. While I was looking at it all, i decided it would be a good time to start boxing some braces.
In no time at all we have boxed both the trailing arms and re-enforced the panhad rod with tubular steel.
Note: We here and Droopz Customz are all about workplace safety.
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-18_114823_P07-16-05_20.44.jpg
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-18_114704_P07-16-05_18.57.jpg
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-18_114909_P07-16-05_19.32.jpg
Everything we pulled off also got cleaned up and coated in a nice Volcano Orange to match the K-mac springs and its all starting to look fairly trick.
And one more for the sake of it...
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-18_115001_P07-16-05_18.59.jpg
That was about it for the weekend. Now we begin work on the intake piping and downpipe.
Finally gotthe camera back so here are a few pics of the weekends results.
Here shows the final colour of the boxed LCAs and also the shinny new Superior axles.
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-20_100502_DSC00964.JPG
Here are a couple of pics of the finished turbo header, with its angled spacer plate. All still needs to be tidied up and such but it give you an idea of what was done.
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-20_100624_DSC00965.JPG
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-20_100644_DSC00966.JPG
This is a pic of the non turbo header. If you compare it to the pic further up in this thread, you can see how much it was modified to fit. Even as it is now, I may still have to 'oval' some parts of it to give it enough clearnace from the K member and starter motor once the engine torques.
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-20_102224_7.JPG
Well, the latest is all from my good friends workshop at Rattla Racing. I needed an experianced exhaust fabricator and a hoist to get this little project into its closing stages.
Firstly, we have the awsome down pipe John made up for me. Its 3" mandrel bent from the turbo's V-clamp (even though it uses a 4" outlet, it would be unrealistic to try and fit 4" of pipe through everything...) The black pipe is the lower connection over to the other header, and the silver one is the bottom of the down-pipe.
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-30_233104_DSC01014.JPG
Another shot of the downpipe but here you can see the braided line running from above the oil filter that will lead to a block for the turbo feed, oil pressure and oil temp.
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-30_233837_DSC01017.JPG
Here are a couple of shots of the drivers side sub-frame connectors. Me and the old man welded them in while John was making the downpipe.
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-30_234139_DSC01015.JPG
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-30_234312_DSC01016.JPG
And one last shot of the whole lot so far. Boxed LCA's, boxed Panhard rod, poly bushes and SFCs.
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-07-30_234612_DSC01018.JPG
Well that was it for today. With the exception of the silicone reducer I need to hook it up to the throttle body, she'll be bloody close to done my the end of the long weekend. All that left is plumbing the wastegate to the down pipe, tapping the sum for the oil return and thats about it. Stay tuned folks....
Just a few pics of what is fast becoming a knot of exhaust pipes....
The downpipe that I was convinced wouldnt fit... and the wastegate plumbing lined up...
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-08-03_111355_DSC01022.JPG
The knot.... You can see here on this shot how close a few bits ended up to the body. Even though the engine will torque the other way, just vibrations with mean it hits. So it looks like ill put the solid mounts in and run turn-buckled torque chains/cables on both sides.
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-08-03_111430_DSC01023.JPG
Downpipe again...
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-08-03_111510_DSC01026.JPG
And finally, the drivers side. Plenty of room now.
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-08-03_111742_DSC01028.JPG
Ill head back later today and see if its ready to go home.
Finished the dodgy intake piping while i wait for the mandrel stuff to be made. Turns out I had no really good way to get the cross-over pipe connected under the car without a hoist, so thats getting done today.
And NO.... thats not me....
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-08-09_110807_879.JPG
Next up... Hood fabrication...
Well i thought id share what I could with everyone. Now technicly this isnt a 'hood' but actually a hood-skin that we've re-enforced to remove the need for the second second layer steel hood use.
Over the past couple of weeks ive been taught essentially the 'old skool' method of creating a fiberglass product from an original, by a great old guy whos been doing it since the early 50s. Now im no expert or professional, but I think its worth sharing since its really not as hard or expensive as alot of people think.
First thing you have to do is get your original as perfect as you can. This means getting is flat/straight and bloody well polished. The finish you get now is nearly what youll get on your product. Small dints arnt an issue as on the mould youll make they will become bumps, that you can sand and polish out.
For my hood it simply required 3 coats of detailing clay to polish the paint up nice
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_121750_DSC01559.JPG
Next is the mold release wax. ALlthough we were also going to use a PVA compound as a releasing agent, the wax just makes it that little bit easier.
Waxed
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_121910_DSC01561.jpg
PVAed
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_121956_DSC01572.JPG
Once the hood is preped we are ready to make the mold.
Unfortunatly I didnt have access to a camera for alot of the mold creation but the steps are fairly simple.
- Pour/spread the gel-coat over the hood. We waxed along the edges as well so when it came of there would be a good lip to mould to. Apart from making the final hood easier to make, a lip around the edge also provides alot of strength.
- Once the gelcoat has set, lay your first layer of fiberglass and paint it down with resin.
- The most important thing about this first layer is that there is NO AIR between it and the gel coat. So alot of care has to be taken to 'roll' the fibers and resin down with a small solid roller. (No pic sorry)
- Once that has set we put another 2 layers of fiberglass to strengthen the mold a bit. These layer still need to be rolled down, but a little bit of air isnt going to matter.
- Once that was done, the edges were cleaned up and gently seperated and the mold poped off without much force at all.
- Because I wanted to keep the mold to make more hoods later, we took care to make sure it was going to be strong and keep its shape so we glassed on so timber to firm it all up.
Final mold surface (negative hood)
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_122940_DSC01575.JPG
Braced up for safe keeping
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_123007_DSC01574.JPG
Now we were ready to make the final product!
The process is exactly the same.
- Clay polish x3
- Release wax x3
- PVA x1
- Gelcoat (wait to set)
- First layer of fiberglass (roll very carefully)
- Second and third layer of glass
Now this is were we kept going. Becuase this is the final product and i wanted it as strong (but light) as possible we introduced some 'Core mat'.
Core mat is a fiberous matting (looks like a thin yoga mat) and absorbes the resin and expands to about 6-7mm think and gives a large piece like this hood alot of strength.
Laying the mat.
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_123525_DSC01583.JPG
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_123552_DSC01584.JPG
Once the mat has been rolled down, a final layer (a bit thinker) of fiberglass went down, this time with a bit pigment and wax in the resin to give is a slightly smoother finish.
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_123725_DSC01585.JPG
Once that has all set (overnight) we are ready to pop the new hood out.
Once i sat the new hood on the car i marked out where i need to cut to clear the turbo and it fit PERFECTLY.
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_123947_DSC01586.JPG
Now the next step was to make some kind of scoop to cover everything up.
After looking around the fiberglassers shed for something to use as a mold, we found the top-half of a 1 man speed boot hull that looked like it had the basic shape I was after, but was going to need alot of hand forming and blending to get it looking half like it fits there.
So a polish and a wax later;
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_124210_DSC01588.JPG
Popped it off and some trimming;
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-01_124243_DSC01589.JPG
Thats where Im at right now. A little more trimming and we'll glass it on, then its just a matter of smoothing it all down, molding the 'ridge' its sitting on into the shape of the scoop and then glassing all the heat sheilding to the bottom of the hood and scoop.
More pics tomorrow.
Well, not too much progress the last couple of days but we're getting there.
We glassed on the saftey latch and the heat shielding.
Because we dont have the bulky second skin the normal hoods have, we had to add in a small block to just the right hight for the latch to work properly. I think it looks a little weird, but its strong as and does what it ment to.
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-03_121941_DSC01596.jpg
The heat shielding is ACR gear that I got at the local parts store and was honestly an after-thought. But considering the temp involved I think it is definatly worth having, just to add some protection for the paint on the other side of the hood. Again... to exactly 'prity', but its gonna do what its supposed to.
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-03_122138_DSC01597.jpg
And finally the scoop is almost finished. The ridge i mentioned earlier is molded in and looks great. Makes the whole thing blend into the hood better. Its hard to see because of all the different colours but it looks good. All that left on the scoop to do is decide if I want to trim it straight, curved in, or curved out.
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-03_122415_DSC01600.jpg
Those pics were taken yesterday, we had layed the first layer of resin-glue down to fix the hinges to the hood where they needed to be. Today once its cured, ill glass the hinges on and start sorting out the front pins.
Glee.
Its red! yay!
This weekend was spent just gradually working in the scoop into the hood better with thin layers of bog and alot of sanding :S
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-06_094445_DSC01601.jpg
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-06_094456_DSC01602.jpg
I dont think the pics show it really well but it blended in nicely, especially where the ridge merges into the scoop.
Overall im very happy with it. I would like to pull it off later and fiiberglass some rope into it for a bit more strength, but for now it all good.
(And thats the story of my custom hood. Cheers)
(I got washed out by a major flood in April last year, but this an another 2 cars were saved, but i lost everything else including my house :( )
Well I was able to borrow enough tools and such to finish plumbing in the intercooler. All the bends went under in the flood, so i spend a bit of time with a wirebrush cleaning them up.
So now all the piping is mandel with all the crush-bend having been replaced and a nice shinny new intercooler crammed in the front for good measure. I still need to get hold of some sheet metal or stainless to make up new baffles for in front of the radiator and stregthen the upper radiator mounts.
The new thermo I bought for it he radiator seemed to survive the water as well, and is an ICE 16", mounted directly onto the radiator. Much better than the stock one.
http://freeshare.us/127fs1434669.jpg
I needed a new coil so i bought a MSD Blaster SS coil. Then the old man offered to buy be the 6A ignition box to go with it, which is awsome. Then Nic, trying to be as cool as me went and bought the same stuff Excpet he had to one-up me and get the 6AL. J/king
The wiring isnt finished obvioulsy. Ill drill a neat little hole with a gromit for the large cables to disapear under the console. The small wires behind is lead up to the LCD screen in front of the passenger. They must have come loose when I tapped into the ingnion power wire.
It is pritty loud. I wouldnt recommend installing it inside the car if your one of those old people, or panseys that worry about a "comfortable ride" down to the BiLo to get the grocerys.
Between the 6A, the Bosch 044, induction noise, turbo whine and the exhaust its starting to become a loud car.
http://freeshare.us/127fs1435082.jpg
Just spent a few hours tidying up the engine bay a little and mounting everything that previously relied on zip-ties with nice alluminum brackets.
http://x5.freeshare.us/119fs529250.jpg
And also added an oil catch can. I had to hide it since it had "Drift" etched into the side of it. Shame-job.
http://x5.freeshare.us/119fs529394.jpg
And finally some pics of her now.
http://www.carchat.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2006-02-07_105823_done.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/746/1000292lm7.jpg
Also, a little video I uploaded for someone...
Test Run and Skid (http://www.megaupload.com/?d=KR4BYN59)
Martin.
07-02-07, 09:34 PM
Thats a great build and write up mate well done.
You can see that alot of work/time has gone into it.Its not about the $$ you pay to get it done its about atleast trying to DIY that counts.
P.S I am still pissing my self at this pic..
http://carchat.portaloz.com.au/forum/uploads/Droopz/images/2005-08-09_110807_879.JPG
LMAO!
10sec_rx7
08-02-07, 09:28 AM
awesome dude!!
i want your inlet manifold for my ski boat!
fullboost
09-02-07, 06:47 AM
Very cool, I love these cars :D
Luke
Thanks guys.
I don't suppose anyone can point me at a decent guide for a bit of DIY maintenance on a T700? Things like band tightening or anything above and beyond a basic service kit? I'm VERY inexperianced with autos and their internals, and am keen on trying to get a bit more life out of my poor flogged out box so I can just kill it at Powercruise. :cool:
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